Cerro means ‘hill’ in Spanish. If you ask anyone in Valparaiso how many cerros there are, you’ll probably get a different answer from each person. The number seems to range between 40 to 50, although the number that we heard on our walking tour was 45. In addition to the port, the cerros form the city of Valparaiso; small hill towns forming a semicircle around the water. By staying in Bellavista, one of the many cerros, and participating in a city tour, we learned a little bit about life in this colorful city.
The view of Valparaiso from our hotel balcony, with the bay in the background.
Like many places around the world, Chile was inhabited by natives long before the European discoverers arrived. Once they did however, the demographics, landscape, culture, and history were forever altered. In 1536, the Spanish explorer Juan de Saavedra landed in what is now Valparaiso after rounding the tip of South America. Named after his home village in Spain, Valparaiso was a small, sleepy city on the coast of colonial Chile. After a few hundred years, the city grew into an important port for ships after crossing the Strait of Magellan and Cape Horn. It was the first city after the treacherous passage that had a port large enough and a city urban enough to provide a break for the water-weary sailors. As a main shopping point for ships, the area attracted immigrants from numerous backgrounds. Primarily from European descent, they formed the mismatch of culture that is still prevalent in Valparaiso today. More inhabitants equals a need for more housing, forcing the new arrivals to build up on the hills of the city surrounding the port. These communities, each known by a different name, formed the cerros that we know today.
A modern-day boat in front of the city.
As with many cities during the golden time of exploration and trade, Valparaiso eventually declined in popularity due to the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914. The need for a port decreased and the city struggled to update its identity and purpose. With an ideal location near the middle of the country, Valparaiso is still used today as a center for shipping and freighters continue to make regular stops in the port. Most of the trade now consists of exports from Chile, particularly fruit. Aside from shipping, the principle economy these days is tourism and culture, with Valparaiso and its cerros being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tourists from around the world journey to the city to explore the numerous neighborhoods perched on the cerros, experience the culture of a rough-and-tumble port city, and enjoy the street art on display.
The cerros of Valparaiso make for some steep walkways!
Many people are familiar with Valparaiso because of the colorful buildings and street art found throughout the city. Houses built on the sides of the hills are made from adobe, which keeps them cool and (relatively) safe from earthquakes. Adobe is brown and dark, so the residents have taken to adding metal siding in various colors to make their dwelling more attractive and welcoming. With a creative population of locals enthusiastic to practice their art, many of the buildings around Valparaiso are also decorated with some form of graffiti or street art. The designs range from the quick word or symbol that only takes a few minutes to carry out to elaborate murals crafted over the course of a few weeks. Businesses commission artists to plan and paint, ensuring that their building will be adorned with a unique look. Oftentimes, a party is held to celebrate and admire a new mural.
A colorful mural on the side of a building in Valparaiso.
Our stay in Bellavista coincided with the completion of a mural at our hotel: Casa Ferrari 406. The owner was an outgoing and friendly man who invited all of the hotel guests to the party, held the evening before we were due to leave. As we had tracked the progress of the artwork all week, each time we would leave or arrive at the hotel, we were eager to meet the artist and experience a local ‘porteño’ party (porteños are what the residents of Valparaiso are called). At dusk, a group of about 40 friends, employees, and guests gathered on the sidewalk opposite the hotel. The artist, a shy man reluctant to be the center of attention, received an enthusiastic round of applause when the lights illuminated his mural. Champagne corks popped and a toast was raised to the artwork and to the artist and then the party began. Two acrobats entertained the crowd for a short amount of time before joining the rest in celebration. A small band performed as people mingled, glasses of champagne and wine in hand. Being outsiders who spoke little Spanish, we initially stood on the outskirts of the party but were soon welcomed into the mix with smiles and kisses. We spoke with an older man who had lived in Los Angeles during the riots, a teacher who brings her students to Valparaiso every year, and the girlfriend of the artist who we had seen at the hotel during the week. While the party continued much later, we retired to our room after a couple of hours, happy that we had the opportunity to participate in a local event close to the heartbeat of the city.
Part of the finished mural at Casa Ferrari 406.
A quick picture of the party-goers before the celebration began!
The colorful cerros of the city originally drew us in as tourists wanting to admire the artwork found on the sides of buildings and on the streets. The open and welcoming nature of the people, all who come from different backgrounds, are what brought the city to life. Understanding a bit of the history of Valparaiso – how it was formed and who the people were who first built adobe houses on the sides of the hills – gave us an appreciation of the original immigrants who chose to make Valparaiso their home as well as the current residents who continue their traditions. While Juan de Saavedra may not recognize the hillside funiculars, modern freighters, or diverse artwork, I think that he would still recognize and revel in the personality of the city that he helped to found.
Our tour guide, a native porteño, explaining different types of graffiti and street art around the city.